Friday, January 20, 2023

Shrinking the Shelf of Shame, episode 2: 1/48 ICM YAK 7/9

This kit came to me as a prize, so it did not fit into one of my common aircraft collection categories. Nicely detailed, not too complicated, it looked like a nice in-between modeling project. Got it 90% assembled, then my ADMD (Attention Deficit Modeling Disorder;-) ) kicked in and I set it aside to work on some other things. Lacking only exterior paint, final assembly and decals, it looks like an easy score for SOS#2, at least compared to the Schoenfeldt Firecracker. 

Not happy with how tight a spray pattern I was getting when I tried to freehand the camo (using Vallejo Air paints), I resorted to silly putty and post it notes to mask the camo patter. Post its cover large areas, silly putty on all edges and for small areas. Both are low tack and gentle, and the roundcedges of the Silly Putty gives a soft edge, creates curves essily, and confirms to all surfaces. Bonus: it can be (re)used many times.

The undercarriage will be painted on the sprue, assembled,  and added.

The decals were a bit fragile, have a matte finish, and a wide clear margin, which I trimmed back as close to the color as possible.

The radio antenna was made with E-Z Line.  There are no marks on the tail to hold the two ends of the wire, you'll have to create your own.

A bit of panel line shadowing was added to highlight the kit details. Builds up into a nice kit OOB.

Tuesday, January 17, 2023

Shrinking The Shelf Of Shame. Episode One - Williams Bros 1/32 Schoenfeldt Firecracker

I bought this kit new during the late 80s as I was slowly getting back into modeling. Always an aviation fan and having become an EAA member, I was seeing a number of recreations of golden age air racers at the annual convention. The Thompson Trophy Racers were the hottest thing going in the 30s, and there were two schools of design: Biggest engine mated to smallest practical airframe (think Gee Bee), and the smallest most streamlined design with enough horsepower to be competitive. The Firecracker was from the second school, a diminutive airframe with less than half the horsepower of the radial engined competition, but still able to hit speeds nearing 300 mph. The narrow profile of the inverted inline engine and the extreme rearward cockpit give it a distinctive racing look.

This kit is very simple, with some fit and finish issues. Unfortunately,  I had a near tragic liquid glue spill that effectively destroyed the landing gear and that, along with the amount of puttying that would be required to smooth out the wing-to-fuselage joint  caused me to move on to greener fields.

Now, it was time to drag this across the finish line.

Putty. Lots of putty...

Combination of kit leftovers, parts box bits, and scratchbuilding and you have gear.

Many putty-and-sand sessions later, I primed with some Tamiya leveling primer. The top mounted radiator surface was sprayed with Vallejo Chrome, followed by clear gloss, and covered with a hand cut mask. 
Tamiya gloss white over everything, followed by..
...Gunze Sangyo yellow. Wet sand, followed by a second coat. 
Once dry, pull the mask 
Now that radiator really "pops".
Next: will the decades old decals go on properly?

As it turns out, they won't go on at all. First attempt, the old film just brokes into tiny fragments.  I sprayed the remaining with Testors decal fixative, which creates what I hope would be a new tougher film over them.
After 90 minutes, only portions would lift.
(the decal disaster. Top one crumbled; bottom wouldn't release. I scanned it before it curled and broke)

I am now scanning the sheet to print my own copies 🤞

In order to get a clean graphic, I need to remove all the old yellowed "paper" from the image. This involves a few hours of pixel-level "trimming", but provides a good basis for printing.
Here it is, on Testors decal paper, off an HP Envy Photo 5800 printer. After a few hours air drying, it was sprayed with a coat of Testors spray fixative and let dry.
This is now a single sheet of decal, so trimming close with a fresh #11 exacto is needed. Here is the result:
Other than the lack of white firecracker burst lines, it is as good or better than the original IMHO.

The original had a distinctive laminated prop, so that was recreated.
Now for some clear gloss to seal it all in.
I need to add a pitot tube, control cables for the rudder, and a tail skid, and finish up the detail painting. Tomorrow may be The Day...
Once I realized I needed to have put "70"s on the wings, I got back to decaling, then added homebrew control wires, pitot tube, and exhaust stacks. Time for a few glamor shots.
And by way of comparison,  here it is with the winner of the 1939 Thompson Trophy race, the Lair-Turner Meteor. The 2 design philosophies, side by side. Yes, they are the same scale.
.....
I  guess it's true: there is no replacement for displacement...

Monday, January 9, 2023

It was the best of kits, it was the worst of kits: a Tale of One Tank Car (with apologies to Mr. Dickens)

I recently picked up a classic "GRAMPS" tank car kit in HOn3 made by Precision Scale, from a Facebook B-S-T group.
Let me begin by saying it is an excellent kit and worth adding to your personal narrow gauge empire. But that comes with a warning and a few recommendations. 

Back in the 80s when I first began collecting HOn3 DRGW trains, everything was either imported brass ($$$) or kits, usually in plastic, sometimes in brass, or a blend. Any of those available at the time could be built into a faithful, and quite detailed replica of the original, but required skills beyond those of the typical model railroader. I had obtained a box car, flat car, stock car, caboose, even a few parlor cars over the years, and an MDC loco kitted out as DRGW 375 to pull them.
But until very recently, I had never come across one of the unique "GRAMPS" tank cars seen on the Grande from the mid 30s until 1964 (more on their story here ). Courtesy of a fellow modeler thinning out his collection, I was able to get one for, comparatively,  a song.
Now please notice the "fine print" below the heading.
....
Same instructions and packaging for plastic trucks and details, as for brass trucks and details.
....
And therein lies the tale.

In retrospect, my theory is that the instructions were written with plastic details in mind. 

Most of the construction is straightforward and simple. But if your kit has Brass details and trucks, I strongly recommend you read on, and Do Not follow the instructions as written.

-The Tank. Complete it as written. Attach to the frame as written. Do not add handrails to the tank, nor brake rigging to the frame, yet.
The tank straps are flat brass. You have a choice. If you use the kit material, measure the length needed with a paper strip substitute. Cut the two straps off where the tank meets the frame. Make your own tank hold down rods to connect the strap to the fittings on the frame. This is neither covered or mentioned in the instructions. Find a good model photo like the below to guide you.
Trying to feed the straps under the handrails, without damaging anything else is not possible. 
As an alternative,  make your own straps from wine bottle foil. You'll still need to make your own hold downs.

Once installed, add handrails, brake detail as instructed. 

Addendum: To save trouble during decal application,  do not intall the brake chain until after the car end decals have been applied.

-(Brass) Trucks.
It appears that the trucks are "unfinished". Not just unassembled, but requiring additional machining to enable the wheels to turn...

You will not be able to "snap" the side frames onto the bolster. You'll need to file off the tabs that prevent assembly. I also needed to spread the long edges of the bolster to allow the tiny machine screws to fit and the trucks to rotate. This will in turn require manual bending of the brake shoe arms so they don't rub the wheels. But wait, there's more...
Journal box, inside-you will need a #55 drill to deepen the hole for the wheel. You will need something like the MicroMark truck tuner (link) to open up the journals to match the axle contour. I used a process as follows. Ten turns of the #55 drill. 2 turns of the tuner. All 4 journals. Assemble and check. Repeat until it rolls freely. Expect it to take multiple iterations. 

Trucks, part 2. There was no hole to allow the "shoulder" screw to pass through the bolster, you'll need to drill it out, and open it up with a round file yourself. 

Trucks, part 3.
The journal box covers are cast as separate pieces. They appear to be designed to enable a small tab on the cover to fit into a small cylindrical slot. Push in, add tiny drop of ACC. But no. All the tabs are oversized.  I had removed them from the brass sprue before discovering this. Don't. File off all the tabs first, then removethem. It's supremely difficult to do after they're removed from the sprue.
Glue them in place after truck assembly (above) with a bit of thick ACC. 

It does build up into a very respectable model. Yes, you need to do a lot of seam filling and smoothing on the top tank seam. The Rail Graphics decals are excellent,  balancing detail, strength, and ability to be pushed and pulled into position, responding well to solvaset.

I would not hesitate to buy and build this kit again. But the build could do with a lot less cursing and frustration if you modify the instructions as noted. Good luck!


Sunday, January 1, 2023

2022 In Review: A modeling Annual Report

Seeing many others' posts regarding their builds for 2022, I thought I'd take it a step further, and create my own Modeling  Inc. Annual Report balance sheet. Here goes...


New kits added to stash: 8

-MDC HO Consolidation 
-Great Wall Hobby 1/48 TBD Devastator
-Hobby Boss 1/48 FM-2 Wildcat
-Athearn HO Rotary Snow Plow
-Roundhouse HO ATSF Caboose
-Itakeri 1/56 M13/40
-ICM 1/48 Yak 9
-Precision Scale HOn3 UTLX tank car 

Kits completed from stash/refurbished: 10

-Encore 1/72 Pfalz D.IIIa "Stachel"
-Monogram 1/48 F8 Crusader
-TBD Devastator
-Athearn HO SD-45 (rebuild)
-Athearn HO Rotary Snow Plow
-Atlas HO train Station (rebuild)
-Roundhouse HO ATSF Caboose
-Italeri 1/56 M13/40
-DIY Sectional tabletop gaming rivers 
-Mirage 1/48 Halberstadt CL.II
-REM's HO D&SNG Excursion Gondola

Net change in stash/SOS as of 12/31: -3

Kits Started, not completed: 5

-MDC HO Consolidation
-DIY HO Layout pavement (rebuild)
-Tyco/Mantua Pacific (rebuild)
-ICM 1/48 Yak 9
-Airfix 1/72 Typhoon

Shelf of Shame as of 12/31: 16

-MDC HO Consolidation
-DIY HO Layout pavement (rebuild)
-Tyco/Mantua Pacific (rebuild)
-ICM 1/48 Yak 9
-Airfix 1/72 Typhoon
-Monogram 1/48 B-26
-Monogram 1/48 ME-410
-AMT/Ertl 1/72 YB-35
-AMT/Ertl 1/72 XB-70
-Monogram 1/48 A-6
-Monogram 1/48 F-117
-Trumpeter 1/350 CV2 Lexington
-1/6 ABC War Robot
-Williams Bros 1/32 Schoenfeldt Firecracker 
-Lindberg 1/48 Snark (rebuild)
-Tamiya 1/12 Yamaha 1990 FZR750R
-Precision Scale HOn3 UTLX tank car

While my balance is trending in the desirable direction, I really need to work on my ADMD in 2023...

I think a quarterly Update is in order.