This may look familiar to those who have seen my previous posts on building old Monogram kits. But this is an experiment and something I have never before attempted. I don't have any models I wish to destroy nor do I wish to buy a perfectly good kit and intentionally destroy it. However; I did have, in my stash, some left over parts from an online purchase that contained "almost" two ME 109s. I double checked and found fuselage halves, wings, propeller and seat back - that was it. The key for me was the existence of the intact prop. There would be considerable DIY to produce what was missing, but I was willing to give it a try and see what I could come up with. My goal is to create a belly landing of which there appear to be many in photo archives. For example:
AND
My starting point was building a cockpit - the old Monogram had zilch detail except for a decal instrument panel, which was fortunately in the left over kits parts. My sole ability to fabricate parts for this experiment is my saving of wine bottle foil. It is moldable, cuttable and (almost too) easy to mark and scribe. This is wine foil (WF) cut to be a floor plate. I like the green!
I have added a bunch of bits here, both pieces of PE as well as snips off of sprue trees. The thing is, these were not random choices or placement. I found photos of an Eduard 1/32 bf 109E-3 kit and I have attempted to emulate what I saw. I don't know function (other than foot paddles). I have cut out the instrument decal and glued it in place as well as the seat backplate, or should I say, a portion of it. More on that later.
Needing a pilot seat I cut up an extra radiator grill from a 1/48 scale 2.5 ton truck recently built for a diorama I am still working on. Note the cut out for a seat belt harness. As you will see, this is not the only use of left over parts from the 6x6 truck sprue.
Here is how it will fit. Note I have cut up some of the truck leaf springs to form the seat rails, along with other internals. levers etc.
Next I wrap foil around the "radiator" seat back and leave enough length to form the seat itself. Some cyano glue on the back holds it in place. After forming the seat I poke a hole in the back where I had cut the grill and insert a "foil" harness easily cut with the xacto.
Here is the result with the seat formed, and glued to the "rails". Bits of PE are from a left over "Tom's Models" sheet for a 1/350 scale destroyer and are used for everything including foot pedals, seat belt buckles, intake grills etc. and anything else I can think of. The "Stick" is a hand brake, also from the 2.5 ton truck sprue and is inserted in a "foil" mounting plate. Obviously I have gone to the fine tip brush and done some painting. The other half of the fuselage is not as complex, but still follows the Eduard interior photos.
The concentration on the interior is my key to the wreck since the canopy will be at least partially or completely missing with the "crash landing".
Before closing up the fuselage the missing rudder must be fabricated. First I drew a paper template then scribed the foil accordingly for both surfaces. Foil bits are also glued for the connections.
Port side scribed for the ribs and glued to the tabs.
I had to add paper and foil in order to give the rudder adequate thickness. It took three layers of decreasing size to fill in so I could then close up the fuselage.
As I stated, the fuselage is now closed up using thin cement and then applying the starboard rudder half. It turned out well. I now have a sturdy rudder that can also be bent or perforated (with bullet holes) as I see fit.
Recall I mentioned PE for intakes. I was able to saw out and open the underside intake and insert PE. (A piece of radar array).
Recall that I said I used a portion of the seat back? I snapped off the top portion that had a pilot head rest for two reasons. First I wanted to show the hatch behind the pilot that could be opened and pulled down forward to access the fuselage interior. Second I saw that the seat backplate was attached to the canopy that was jettisoned for bale-out or crash landings.
Some additional detail. I cut and filed out the little molded humps that represented machine guns, pin drilled the fuselage and inserted styrene rod for the two MG17s. Fuselage seams needed filling and sanding. Now it was time for the heat.....
.....applied to the propeller. I simply held the blades over a tee light (candle) and bent them over - a belly landing under power! I also heated my xacto blade tip and jabbed the spinner a few times.
The prop is not attached yet, but this shows how it will look. plus I have done a bit of painting to mark up the intake from the belly flop.
To the bottom wing: I still have my sky mix (had to thin it) and two coats did the trick. After etching out the recessed panel lines I went over the surface with 1,000 grit to bring out raised lines and rivets.
To the tail: The same procedure for fabrication used on the rudder so I will let the picture tell the story.
I did need four pieces of foil.
Here is the tail assembled with styrene rod supports.
It can be noted that paint has been applied. More on that in a moment.
See? I put the gray on first and then stippled in two different greens. I kept dry stippling until I got what I wanted. It is a good process for me and faster than air brushing.
THE WINDSCREEN
I was concerned about this since it was a compound form of sheet styrene. It was hard measuring accurately and I ended up with the slope being two long.
by the time I realized this I was too far along to want to start over. I figured with no other parts with which to measure it would be acceptable (for me).
I had to count them up - 12 pieces of PE to form the frame (and I even missed one).
Once the adhesive was dry and everything seemed solid I got out the pin vise drill for the battle damage that brought the ship down. Machine gun holes stitch up to and through the windscreen.
Decal time. The 'S' in the shield is from the original decal set. Though over 60 years old and yellowed, I like the look and decided to try. Amazingly they did not disintegrate in the water and I was able to place with Solveset. One looks a bit crackly but they are solid. the cross is from my stash as is the "Stencil" number 13.
Thanks to Brother Bob for parting with two of the Swastikas' from his stash. Note the rudder got riddled too.
Here is where I was compelled to touch up. The Stencil 13 did not look right - the allies used Stencil, not the Axis, also the cross has to have black lines at the edges.
Careful touch up of the numbers and some mask assistance to create the thin black lines.
Similar to a previous view of the bullet hole pattern I had to mix some paint. Red, Black and Dark Red Metal flake made for a satiny dried blood look. The trajectory of the bullet damage through the windscreen looked to me like the pilot could be wounded - through the right shoulder - hence the splatter on the starboard side and seat belt harness. Ok, a bit macabre perhaps but it made sense to me that, wounded, our intrepid pilot was able to still pancake his craft and walk away.
A sprue tree in the stash was the perfect diameter for the propeller shaft - a force fit so I can turn it and no glue!
Now I have to face the wings - yikes!
Earlier I showed the bottom wing with the "Sky" blue paint, but now I have added insignia and gear to the Starboard side. Wait, what? Gear? I almost forgot. I found the gear in my stash and recalled that when I built a Corsair for my step grandson he wanted a wheels up model. Ok, so Corsair gear is different, but it is the same scale and I was able to fit it in the wings and close them up!
All was going well applying decals and painting the outside black border until I started to mask the port side decal - it flaked off on me!!! I am not sure what happened - probably not enough Solveset or I did not wait long enough. Even at my age I occasionally get too anxious. Well, I recovered the bits of decal and positioned the pieces as best I could and I painted in the rest. It is a bit rougher looking but my rationalization is that this is the port side and is the side that I will create the damage (in landing).
The top side of the starboard wing (undamaged) has been glued in place and painted with the same technique as the fuselage. The insignia has been applied, but I am going to wait sufficiently until I try and add the black boarder. Now I must contemplate to what extent I want to damage the port wing.
I first snipped at the crotch and then bent the wing until it cracked. I also broke the gear leg and glued it into the opening.
I then scored and broke out the aileron as well as clipped off the edge of both upper and lower wing halves. You can see here that the top half as been glued in place, the aileron reattached in the down position and pieces of foil cut and glued to the wing.
I'm fairly satisfied with the "torn and shredded" look. Now when I paint the top of the wing and then sand or file on the top of the wing the edge it will expose the silver side of the foil.
The under side is finished complete with "weathering" as she pancaked along the ground. I have applied paint to the top of the port wing and will show it as soon as I get the insignia applied.
I almost forgot the wing guns! More bits from the 6x6 sprue. The 20mm cannon is the correct weapon mount as evidenced by the 60 round ammo drum bulges under the wing. I was able to pin drill the ends of the "guns".
We are essentially done now as the port wing is painted and insignia applied and black border added (shown to be thicker than the underside insignia border). I added a broken antenna post and droopy, thread radio wire. Now I need to set up some diorama photos.
But first here are a few extras I posted on facebook.