The wall section is one piece of a late medieval castle for use with tabletop minatures and rules. This was something I started decades ago when my kids were into Warhammer and we had taken a trip to England and Wales. Caernarvon, Conwy, the walls around York and Clifford's Tower, all served as inspiration. I intended to freelance a castle based on the concentric castles ala Beaumaris. I was using lots of styrofoam in various hobbies so this was the base material of choice. Given a coat of Woodland Scenics flexpaste, it would stand up to any paints or glues I might use on it. But a large castle requires a large effort, and lots of time to build and space to store. I forged ahead until I began painting the gatehouse.
Although I liked the result, painting it essentially stone by stone was going to require more than I was willing to give...so pn the shelf it went.
Fast forward 30 years or so.
2 events conspired to help pull the project off the pile: cleaning the basement and the random discovery of the Barron's War ruleset.
I had a freestanding wall section that would be placed at right angles to a corner tower (not shown) to extend the castle walls.
Having always wanted to do some hoardings on these walls, I seized the moment and my stash of balsa and got busy.
First, to choose a basis for my project. Set in a pre gunpowder and pre machicolation period, I would base it on a "putlog" style, but without actually using putlogs, as I wanted to make it removable.
I used 1/8 square balsa, dragging a razor saw over the surfaces to create an exaggerated grain. I made one frame by eye, measured and drew it, to create a pattern for creating uniform copies.
You get slightly less than 2 frames from a 3 ft piece (so buy extra)
I use some quick drying white glue called Tacky Glue which speeds the process. A sheet of waxed paper taped over the drawing and we're off. (You will need to change it out once or twice before you're done.)
I placed the frames 11/2 in. apart to match my crenellations, which, I discovered, I should have measured more carefully ;-)
A total of 12 frames will be required for each 18in. wall section. Have a selection of mini clamps, self closing tweezers, and small rubber bands handy to attach the stringers that connect the frames, as well as the floor and front wall. Patience and/or a talent for profanity will help.
A total of 12 frames will be required for each 18in. wall section. Have a selection of mini clamps, self closing tweezers, and small rubber bands handy to attach the stringers that connect the frames, as well as the floor and front wall. Patience and/or a talent for profanity will help.
Two stringers run along the top, a bottom plate under all the rear uprights. I used smaller sized balsa for these.
The decking and wall was built of 1/32 in. Basswood cut into strips. They were cut to length, slipped in place, and the locations for the arrow loops marked with a pencil. They were then removed and the loops cut out. I opted for simple rectangles; many styles existed.
Although hoardings were typically not a permanent installation, and thus a raw wood finish would be appropriate, I just had to hit it with some stain.
For roofing, I wanted quick and dirty, and removable.
I used a sheet of chipboard joined in the middle by some lowly Scotch Tape (OK, the Super Sticky variant) and printed out slate roofing on my printer. (I have a store of roof, wall, and road textures saved for various scenery projects) The bottom edge and sides were trimmed with a sharp exacto to give an irregular edge. The underside of the edges of roof and shingle edges were blackened with a Sharpie, and fastened together with double sided tape.
On the bottom, I glue some balsa planks to keep it centered and from sliding forward, yet easily removed.
Here's my drawing. You'll need to match the design to your walls. Happy Hoarding!
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