So you bought a resin kit...(For modelers new to resin kits)

Not all gamers are modelers, and not all modelers are gamers. There is plenty of crossover in the Bolt Action community, but those of us who model probably started out with plastic kits; and those gamers who are looking to save money and get stuff on the table ~ fast may see resin kits as a way to get there. Furthermore, some lower sales volume kits are only available in resin. 

Here's what it took to get me from unboxing to table for a resin M4A3E2 "Jumbo" from Blitzkrieg Miniatures  .

Resin kits come with far fewer parts than a styrene kit. You sacrifice depth of detail, but for tabletop gaming, it represents well and is fairly durable.

We have the hull and tracks, and turret in resin; gun barrel and pintle machine gun in 3d print,  and hull mg and hatch in white metal. Six pieces in total. 

Recommended tools and materials:

1. ACC cement (thin) - quick bonding to anything, especially skin and tools ;-)

2. ACC Cement (thick) - great for uneven surfaces,  gives you time to get the positioning just so before it slowly dries.

3. A sanding stick .

4. A set of needle files

5. Squadron putty or equivalent.

6. The ubiquitous exacto knife.

7. A razor saw.

8. A set of pin vise drills and holder.

9. Paint and decals suited to your chosen prototype. 

10.  Good reference photos.

Closer inspection will reveal those places you will want to true up with sanding, filing, or cutting. In this case:

That gap between the hull and the track did not cast cleanly. We'll use the razor saw to clean it to a better depth. 

Big mold parting line on the transmission housing. That will take some sanding and filling.

Same story on the other side, plus we have some missing "duckbills", track extenders to spread the weight of this up-armored version on soft ground.

Out back:

The folding platform on the rear deck has broken off in shipping.  You'll also note the edges of the hull, dust guards, etc have some lumpy spots we'll smooth out and square up.

The turret is fairly clean.

Just a few mold parting lines on the mantlet to clean up. We'll also drill out all the lifting lugs on hull and turret to a consistent, round size.

First, lets take our razor saw and clean up the area between the track and hull.

Due to the size of the gap, I used a larger saw to clean up.

Use some ACC cement to reattach the stowage tray.

Use the sanding stick to smooth out the mold parting lines on the transmission cover, and some squadron putty to fill the low spots. When dry, sand smooth and add a coat of paint. Lightly hand sand the area with fine sand paper to reveal any remaining high or low spots. Looks like we're good. 

Next, let's address the short shot in the starboard tracks.

First, square up the opening to the nearest whole links. Cut a piece of thin sheet styrene long enough to close the gap, and notch it slightly at intervals to match the width of the track links. Use your ACC cement to glue it in place, even with the bottom of the track.

Next, use short lengths of styrene rod to form the raised edges of the duck bills, gluing in place with styrene cement (which gives you more time to position them).

When dry, use a file to smooth and match the contours of the adjacent track links.

Let's use some styrene strip to add the supports for the stowage tray.

Now, for cleaning. All molded items, resin kits in particular, use an oily mold release agent to ensure it can be cleanly removed from the mold. This needs to be removed to ensure paint adhesion. 

Mix a solution of hot water and dishwashing detergent and use a soft brush to scrub the entire model. Rinse thoroughly with hot water and set aside to dry.

I recommend using a good primer to prep your model before painting, particularly when using acrylic paints. I have had good luck with Army Painter spray primer, which is available in a wide range of colors.

Once thoroughly dry, you can paint with the finish of your choice. I went with Mr. Color Olive Drab acrylic as on my other US vehicles. It goes on semi-gloss to which decals adhere well.

From this point forward, finish as you would any other model. To see how I finished this particular Jumbo, read on...

First, some Armor Wash to darken the panel shadows. 

I was able to obtain some decent decals from Company B Miniatures for my chosen prototype, Cobra King from CCR, 4th Armored Division, the lead tank of the breakthrough into Bastogne. I wanted it as it would appear before the breakthrough, so it would not have the "First In Bastogne" lettering applied.

The decals are a single sheet of film, so close cutting is necessary. They went on easily and with application of some solvaset, snuggled down and lost much of their sheen.

Next, a coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish will seal them in and prep the surface for oil based weathering. 

Had to work to find a lighting angle where I could see any trace of decal film. Success!